Sunday, November 8, 2009

Plymouth Rock and the National Cemetary

Honoring the Veteran's, Remembering the Pilgrims

Tucker’s Rating – 3 wags. While dogs are certainly welcome to stroll the street, they aren’t allowed in the museums in the area, or the shops, so a visit to this park (for a dog) is nothing more than a stroll down a city street. Both Tucker and Daisey joined us for this trip, and did get out to run around the rest area at the Cape Cod Canal… The humans on the trip give the park 4 wags. We’re definitely coming back in-season to explore the museums, and some of the antique shops, and the whole downtown area. Seems like a fun place to spend a weekend.

Admission Fee – free for the state park, $10 for adults and $7 for children at Mayflower II, but they do offer package prices for entrance to
Plimoth Plantation AND Mayflower II .Would be a very nice option if you’re a history buff or have children who are learning about the founding of our country.

Accessibility – Accessible to all. There are handicap parking spots a plenty. Mayflower II appears to be handicapped accessible, although the ramps looked steep, and I’m not too sure how accessible the inside of a ship that age could EVER be. Plymouth Rock itself is just behind some stone columns within the memorial and can be seen from the sidewalk. Plenty of benches around and while the steps up to the statue of Massasoit are VERY steep, you can get there by walking up the sloping street on either side.

SO on with the adventure!!!

We were greeted again by a very sunny weekend and set Saturday as a day to drive south to the Cape. With Veteran’s Day just around the corner, and Thanksgiving not too far behind, it seemed the National Cemetery in Bourne and Plymouth Rock and the pilgrims were the perfect focus for this weekend. We packed up Lillian, Tucker and Daisey for the drive south, remembered water, binoculars, cameras and the GPS and loaded up the CD player with favorites for the two plus hour drive. Amazingly enough there are leaves aplenty still on the trees in November. They’ve turned a rusty brown, but against the blue sky it was a beautiful site. Driving through Boston we were happy to note that traffic cooperated and it wasn’t long before we found ourselves heading over the Sagamore Bridge…. Oops, wrong bridge! And they’re doing work on the bridge itself so it’s down to one lane each way…. We scooted off before joining the throngs and drove along the Cape Cod Canal to the Bourne Bridge. For some reason this is usually the less trafficked bridge of the two, and Saturday it was the same, even WITH construction. We arrived at the cemetery in no time. It was decorated for Veteran’s Day, with Memorial Circle lined with flags waving in the breeze. The flags along this drive are donated by families who receive flags from the government when a loved one passes away. Nice way to memorialize someone instead of keeping the flag in its plastic container tucked away somewhere. The flags are lined up like a color guard greeting visitors to the cemetery and bring to mind all the men and women who have fought and continue to do so to ensure that we can live in a world where freedom is a possibility. Veteran’s Day is a holiday that many people kind of just move past without giving it much thought, but at a place like the National Cemetery you quickly realize the respect and honor that is due to so many.

We got out of the car and walked down to my father’s gravesite and in the distance we heard the sound of bagpipes float on the breeze. Memorial services occur year round at the cemetery, and we saw a motorcycle escort leaving with limousines while we were taking pictures at the entrance. The cemetery has grown incredibly since my father was laid to rest here back in 1994. Both the current war in Iraq and the aging of the “Greatest Generation” with all the WWII vets has had an obvious impact. But the facility is beautiful, peaceful and a wonderful memorial to those who have passed on and were a part of past wars, both on the battlefront, and on the homefront.

After paying our respects, we headed out to Plymouth, with a stop at the rest area along the Cape Cod Canal. Tucker and Daisey probably had more fun at THIS stop than the rest of the day. There are monuments recognizing the engineers who assisted with the development of the canal at the stop, and also picnic tables and a beautiful view all the way to the Sagamore Bridge. There’s also a memorial plaque for Monica Dickens Stratton, the woman who founded the Samaritans, USA. It was Monica who got them to place barriers up on the bridges crossing the canal. In her words, “The Samaritans hope that saving people here will give them time to reconsider. To give themselves another chance at living, and at finding some help.” For as long as I can remember there have been signs on the Sagamore Bridge letting people know that the Samaritans are only a phone call away. It seemed appropriate that a memorial to her would be included at this mini-park.

We did get confused by the entrances to the bridge on our way off Cape and ended up driving across the Sagamore (in the construction traffic) then circling around to head back again, so we actually drove to the Cape TWICE on Saturday! But soon we were back on track and reminding ourselves to update the maps in our GPS! Note to all! When you go exploring and rely on a GPS, make sure its got the most current maps and give yourself half a chance of getting to your destination without the words “recalculating route” ringing in your ears at every turn! While our GPS voice is pleasant, on days like this we expect to hear her say, “I’m sorry … what didn’t you understand about KEEP RIGHT!!!!” Or even “Sorry, you’re on your own!”

We arrived in Plymouth after a half hour or so and easily found Plymouth Memorial State Park. There are two parking areas adjacent to the Park and memorial itself, however they provide very limited parking and require you to be able to parallel park… not something we seemed to do very well in the mini-van, so we continued on a short way to the waterfront and there was plenty of diagonal parking with meters, and only a short two block or so walk back to the memorial. The property is very clean and with the tide actually in, the rock sits in about 8 inches of water. Most people comment, “that’s it???” when they see the memorial, as though they expect this gigantic piece of granite to have been sitting on the beach. Whether or not pilgrims actually stepped on this rock can certainly be debated, but this is the story that has been told for generations and we’re okay with that. It’s a very simple site, free to the public, and not commercialized. I’d just like to see more information about that first group of pilgrims without having to pay to get into Mayflower II or Plimoth Plantation.

Way back in the 60’s when I was in grade school I remember there being a lot of talk about the pilgrims and the development of the colonies, but I’m thinking that’s not a huge piece of education today. My reason for this is while we walked around the pier, looking through the fence at Mayflower II, there was one young mother, walking her two year old around the pier and the question was asked, ‘Mommy, where did the people COME from that were on this ship.” And Mom dutifully answered, “I don’t know….” WHAT?!?!?! There are actually signs posted outside the exhibit listing all the people’s names AND the port the Mayflower II left from. The least she could have done is read that sign. The ship on display actually DID sail from England to New England but obviously much after the original pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. The two year old wasn't asking about the original pilgrims, just the people who sailed on this boat. Maybe she couldn't give exact answers about the pilgrims themselves, but it would have been SOME answer. Poor kid. I wonder how many other questions he asks that get answered like that. In any case, you’ve got to love a mother who answers with “I don’t know” rather than trying to find an answer for a question she should already know the answer to, or use it as a learning experience for both mother and child! But don’t get me started….

Across the street from the memorial is a steep set of steps, leading up to the statue of Massasoit. At the bottom of the steps is a sign for the Pilgrim Museum or Plymouth Museum or some such thing and at the top was a beautiful colonial style building, so Beth and I decided to walk up the steps…. At the top there are numerous viewers (25 cents for like 1 minute of time) and on a clear day you can see to Provincetown, but that big colonial building isn’t a museum! Its condominiums… I have a sneaking suspicion it USED to be the museum…. Because we walked up the street behind and saw a few other smaller museums, none of which were open, and NONE of which deserved a sign that big! Aaaaah progress... very sad. We also found the Mayflower Society House Museum. The property houses the library of the General Society of Mayflower Descendants. The museum is open during the summer, except during heatwaves, which lead me to believe it is NOT air conditioned! But definitely another spot we’d like to check out in-season.

We’d only put enough money in our meter to last 30 minutes, and Lillian and the dogs were in the car so we had to head back at this point to discuss a late lunch. While buying a sandwich and eating in the car sounded like an easy way to go, we decided to drive a bit further along the water front and stop in at the Lobster Hut for some fried seafood. Located on the Town Pier, and selling some really YUMMY fried seafood, The Lobster Hut is a restaurant we’d recommend. Nice, clean tasting seafood, not overcooked, not greasy, great portions, reasonable prices, and they’re open 7 days a week, year round! We chose to sit indoors since it was very breezy, however there is plenty of outdoor seating as well. We watched through the window as a very large swan paddled in and around the boats moored in the harbor, and lobster boats came and went. This was a really nice and relaxing ending to our Cape Park trip. We already miss the salt air, and the sunshine!

We’ve got a few other Cape Cod parks selected to visit, but I think we made the right choice for this time of year in stopping at Plymouth. Not sure where our next trip will take us, but we’ll be on the road again soon! Promise!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Odiorne Point, Fort Stark and Fort Constitution State Parks

Abandoned Buildings, Lighthouses, and Ghosts! A 52b452 Halloween Adventure

Tucker’s Rating1.5 wags for the forts (dogs aren't all that into military buildings and history but there IS lots to sniff) and 2.5 wags for Odiorne Point. Since a lot of the trails run through some interesting woods, and a very nice beach, The Point is nice but still there's no place to lie down, and our guess is when the tide comes in there IS no beach.

The humans give the forts 3 wags each, and Odiorne Point gets 3.5 wags…. A bit better than the forts, and a place we thought we’d like to check out “in season”.

Pet Friendly - No. While we did see dog prints on the beach at Odiorne Point, NH State Parks do not allow dogs on Historic sites or beaches.

Price - Free in the off-season for all. It appears that there is a fee for Odiorne Point, but the other two locations have no booth to collect fees, and since Fort Stark is not staffed, its a safe bet it's free all year round!

Accessibility - None of these are what we'd consider "accessible". Odiorne Point has paved biking trails which would be fine for a wheelchair, walker or stroller, but that's just a path through a treed area next to the road. To get to the beach you'd be pushing or wheeling over rocks, roots, and narrow trails. The beach itself is wide and open when the tide is out. Fort Stark is a dangerous spot for children and the website even includes a warning about open stairways, wet rocks and instructs you to call 911 in the case of an emergency. Fort Constitution has paved walkways for the most part so of the three would be considered the most accessible, but as mentioned in the narrative below, if you wander onto the grass, watch out for sink holes... just the right size to step in and twist an ankle! And the turret houses, etc. are accessible only by climbing stairs.

Special Notes - Odiorne Point has paved biking trails that are very nice. They also have a great boat put-in for motorized and paddle type boats. The tide was out when we were there and the creek that leads out into Little Harbor didn't look deep enough for a regular boat, but if you time it right it seems that is a definite option.
Portsmouth Kayak is not too far away and they do rentals although you'd need to check their site for prices, etc. The Seacoast Science Center is also nearby, actually abutting the park based on the maps we saw.

The Adventure (and forgive the length, but remember this is THREE PARKS!!!!
Well, it’s been way too long since we did a park trip. With the very yucky weather we’ve been having lately, we would have been walking in the rain (or even SNOW one day) and with Tucker at our side, all we’d smell is wet dog! Plus, I don’t know about you, but wearing glasses and walking in the rain is just plain not fun! So we’ve had a bit of down time! And now the challenge is to catch up so we decided to visit THREE parks in one day! That’s right, this was to be a whirlwind tour of NH Parks and we knew exactly which three we’d pick. All located on the coast within a few miles of each other, 3 of the 7 forts built to protect Portsmouth Harbor and actually within site of each other.

We set out around 10:30 heading to the Portsmouth area to visit Fort Stark Historic Site, Fort Constitution State Park, and Odiorne Point State Park. All three parks are closed for the season so while the property is accessible to all year-round, there is no admission fee charged at this time of year, no park rangers on hand, and at least for Fort Stark, minimal parking since it seems that the actual parking area is stuck just beyond the chain pulled across the entrance to the site. But since we’re living on a mega-budget these days, free is good, and off we went. As with the last park, dogs are not allowed at these three. In NH dogs are not allowed in any historic sites or beach locations. Check here for a list of pet-friendly parks in NH. Since both forts are historic sites, and Odiorne Point is definitely a beach, Tucker had to stay at home with Daisey for this trip. We did see doggy footprints at Odiorne so obviously off-season people risk it, but you didn’t hear that from us!

On to our adventure. As we set out we realized that we hadn’t thought about lunch, and unfortunately we’d already passed the exit to our favorite Alpine Butcher. But this is an adventure after all so we decided to continue on our way and see what we found! Yay for us! As we got off Rt. 95 in Portsmouth and headed south towards Odiorne Point, we spied Me & Ollie’s café and bakery . OMG!!! This place is awesome enough that we decided it was reason enough to get us to move to Portsmouth! (If there weren’t already enough reasons.) The café has four locations, 3 in Portsmouth, and 1 in Exeter. We stopped at the one located inside the Fresh Market on Lafayette Road and Fresh Market is yet ANOTHER reason to love this area. We’d eat healthy all the time if we had these two establishments in the neighborhood! Low lighting, gourmet everything, organic organic organic, and lots of amazing prepared dishes to bring home for a stupendous home cooked meal when you don’t have time to cook. ME & Ollie's was even given an award by TV Diner and won Best Inexpensive Lunch on the Seacoast, and we agree! Our trip was on Halloween and as we walked into the store we saw a member of KISS grabbing a shopping cart in the parking lot. Produce workers included a cow, and a dominatrix, and the workers behind the deli case all wore prison garb. Me & Ollie’s had a hippie, a fairy and a cigarette girl. The food and that light hearted approach to “casual dress” got us in a great mood.


Odiorne Point

With sandwiches and pumpkin poppers in hand, we drove on to Odiorne Point. Plenty of parking, a great boat put-in (paved and sloped to the river) and very clearly marked trails greeted us. There were no brochures or maps since its off-season (but you can print one off here), so we sat in the sunshine and admired the golden colors of the marsh and Witch Creek as we ate. Then we set off towards Little Harbor. The walking trails are NOT flat. There are a lot of roots, narrow sections, rocks, and brush. Very peaceful and remote, and if you follow the bridge along the marsh, the trail takes you to the beach. Not your typical sandy beach, although it is sand, but it appears that when the tide is high there isn’t much beach left. Large rocks, seaweed, and a beautiful view of Wentworth by the Sea and the golf course across the water. The day we were there was changeably cloudy…. First bright sun, then very dark clouds, and occasionally the sun would be shining on the hotel while we sat in dark cloud so it made the hotel appear to glow across the water. Really beautiful. We wandered down to the point, alternating between the beach and the trail that ran through the woods. Lots of bittersweet strung across the bushes, and we came across an old stone fireplace at one point. Not certain if it had originally been in a water front home, or had always been an outdoor spot. We also found a fox hole. Or that’s what we think it was, on the dunes. I can’t imagine a fox at the beach, but the only other explanation is that the clam worms we read about (there’s a sign at the end of the point) that are supposedly 3 feet long and live in burrows in the beach, actually need a rather large opening to their burrow! I tried to get close to peer in but Beth would have NONE of it! I guess she just imagined some rabid fox or mutant clam worm coming out to attack! The point looks out over open ocean all the way to Isles of Shoals and we could see a light house. We knew it was our next stop, Fort Stark. We continued around the point, partly on the paved bike trails and walked past more abandoned buildings that reminded me of the cinder block booths that used to greet us at the local drive-in (now I’m dating AND regionalizing myself!). Memories of dancing popcorn boxes and Father Time counting down the minutes to “showtime” danced in my head. At one point we walked along the trail beside what MIGHT have been an old bunker. There were periodic cement underpasses with doors that look like they’ve been locked a very long time. This is a very strange park to walk through off season. Lots of things to explore and just past the height of foliage season we were struck by how golden and green everything seemed. It would be a great place for kids to run around in. The park itself is flat, but the trails aren’t stroller or walker friendly, and once you’re in the woods, you need a good sense of direction to know which direction to walk in. But we do believe that all paths lead back to the parking lot (unless you find yourself walking UNDER the road, in which case you’re on your own!).

We read the historic marker to discover that Odiorne Point was actually an old settlement and the site of the first baby being born to European settlers in NH. The settlement included fishermen, coopers, farmers and more. Most of the buildings are long gone, but as mentioned, we did come across various remnants, so we considered this an interesting park. I can’t imagine how busy it would be in the summer, but definitely if you’re looking for a rustic beach on protected waters (no real waves to worry about) this would be a good one. But the parking lot isn’t huge, so get there early. At this time of year though, there’s room for all! The Seacoast Science Center is also nearby and is another great place to stop. Probably something we'll do next time we go!

Fort Stark

At the end of Wild Rose Lane off off Wentworth Road, we almost drove right past without knowing! There’s no signage on the road, but the park really IS at the end of Wild Rose Lane. Parking for maybe 4 cars was all we found, since the entrance to the park itself is chained off. We assume this is open in the summer since it looks like there is a large grass/sand parking area just inside the chains. Fort Stark is an abandoned military property that includes buildings from the late 1800’s, early 1900’s and a very interesting building overlooking the ocean, which was built in the 1940’s.

Again, since we arrived off-season, there were no brochures or maps, and none available on the website. This park is NOT one I’d recommend for people with small children. There are a number of buildings to explore, but no railings on most stairways, and some of the abandoned buildings are open to wander, but dark, and access to second floor open balconies, crumbling concrete and openings to floors below would make this very dangerous. While we were there we came across a few photographers, and on the second floor of one of the barracks it appeared some film students were taking horror or edgy fashion photos complete with draped camera, lights, and costumes. They worked silently, in a fog of smoke that was not coming from cigarettes. We left them alone to their work, and the crumbling floor they were standing on and continued to explore. The views beyond the fort were beautiful, and as we expected, we saw the lighthouse just offshore. The most interesting building we thought was the more modern building. Looking very much like the top of a ship, with a star shaped roof, and curved windows (mostly broken) looking out to sea. The entire building, unlike the others on the property, is gated off with barbed wire along the top. Stairs on the building are exterior with no railings and its difficult to determine whether that’s their original state, but the building definitely intrigued us. The older buildings are open for the most part. With what look like jail cells on the bottom floors (although one cell included a fireplace, and one looked more like an outdoor café, the rest of the buildings are also crumbling. Walking past the modern building, you’ll come upon a building with two levels. An open door on the first floor leads into a dark hallway behind the cells. It didn’t look safe enough to explore without a flashlight and a promise the whole thing wouldn’t collapse, so we continued on, but its obvious this is the way the aforementioned photography group accessed the second floor balcony. Walking around the building and up the hill behind you can look down on the building and see the strange patios, tiered wells (or maybe pools?), and turret rooms. And out to sea we could see waves crashing around the nearest lighthouse. But it was getting late and time to head to our final destination, Fort Constitution, located at the Coast Guard base.

Fort Constitution

A historic site located inside an active military site. There’s a big sign about the property being closed to the public, however on closer inspection there’s a sign telling visitors to Fort Constitution to follow the blue line to the park. So that’s what we did. Following the painted blue line through the parking lot, past the coast guard bell and buildings and on through the portcullis to the older site. It reminded me of walking through Mass General hospital when I was younger, following the different colored lines on the floor to get to the different departments. Coincidentally, we saw a tv show early Saturday morning commenting on this park and how it was haunted. We could believe this! Perfect spot to end our adventure on Halloween! One area, originally known as Fort William and Mary, was built in 1632. Most of the buildings were around during both the Spanish American War and the War of 1812. Most are only viewable through iron bars, but there are a few rooms you can go into. And we found the second lighthouse of the day. Viewable through broken glass windows in one of the turret rooms on the property. As with the other properties we saw no brochures or maps of the grounds. And scattered sink holes in the grass on the property, as well as access to rooms with broken glass windows again make this a somewhat dangerous place for younger children or those prone to twisting an ankle. But its definitely a bit safer and much more active than Fort Stark. there are many educational markers explaining the buildings and history of the site. This is an educational park, and history buffs, or children studying history of these eras would definitely find this park interesting. But care needs to be taken with younger children or people who find it difficult to handle stairs since railings are missing in some areas, and the grounds are well kept but not entirely flat. When it looked like rain was threatening we decided it was time to head home. We may return to Odiorne Point next summer, but probably not again in the off-season.