Fire at Blackstone Valley

Sorry to hear about the fire yesterday at one of our favorite parks. It was in an old mill building under renovation to be used as visitor's center.... not in an area we'd gone to on our visit, but we spoke to rangers there who had been talking about the great plans they had... very sad. Read more about the fire here.

Ferry Beach and Two Lights

Two Parks Near Portland, ME
And yes, they're worth the drive!

A beautiful weekend had been promised, so I selected Ferry Beach as our destination for the day. Beth and I were up early on Sunday and realized we're still pretty far behind in our parks (30 weekends and 40 parks left to visit), so we decided to once again clump a couple parks together! And THIS time, with a full day ahead of us, we were quite determined to get it done! Unfortunately both cars had empty tanks and with gas prices going up, we saw yet another reason to clump trips. It's either that or we're going to have to open a lemonade stand to fund this project of ours. So Ferry Beach it was, and just a bit further north we decided to add Two Lights State Park to our trip. Perfect choice! Both parks are awesome, and places we will visit again. If you’re in the Portland area do NOT miss either of these parks. With a full winter snow onboard they may not be great, but for a 50 – 60 degree day with a mild breeze and most of the snow and ice melted, they were the perfect antidote to a touch of Spring Fever!

Ferry Beach

• Tucker’s Rating – 3.5 Wags (he would have rated it higher but since pets are not allowed in the park between April 1st and September 30th he is shading his vote just a bit.)



• Our Rating – 4 wags! We will most definitely be back but probably in the Fall. AFTER black flies and mosquitos have gone their merry way.
  



• Accessibility – Absolutely! Paved roads, flat dirt/stone dust trails, and beautiful wooden boardwalks. Even with a cane, a wheelchair, a stroller or a Lark you'd be able to have a wonderful day here.
  
  


• Fees – Fees at this park, and a number of other Maine State Parks are a bit confusing. In general it's best to check the schedule for individual parks in Maine. At Ferry Beach specifically we found that off-season there is a $1.50/person day use fee (if you can find the box to deposit it in). In-season, ME resident senior citizens get into the park for day-use for free, otherwise it’s $4 per Maine Resident Adult, $6 for non-resident adult, and $2 for non-resident senior. Also, there is a $1 per child fee and under 5 children get in for free. It's a bit pricy compared to other parks we've been to, but this is a beautiful park and it's obvious where the money goes.



• Pet Friendly – Only off-season, and only on leash. Tucker loved this park since it was very flat. Once he got his pace going he didn’t stop til we got back to the car. There are water fountains throughout the park but in winter they’re turned off… also, there are no trash barrels in winter. So bring water, and plan on carrying out anything that you bring in (or in Tucker’s case, produce once you’re there).

Some Tips for the Road

We headed out around 10 AM. The GPS told us total drive time would be just over 2 hours, and it was pretty right on (although I discovered it was set an hour ahead. Beth tells me next weekend when we go back to daylight savings time we’ll be all set). We filled the tank (ouch! Gas prices ARE going up!), stopped at McDonald’s for some juice and hash browns and were on our way! If you’re heading up this route, plan on extra cash for tolls… we paid at least $5 in tolls before we were up there! Two of them at $2 a piece! Even with our FastLane Pass, you should be aware that this might use up a significant portion of your monthly toll amount. But taking the FastLane aisles does speed up the process!

Also, note that exit numbers on the Maine Turnpike (Rt. 95) are based on mileage, not actual number of exits…. So when you’re at exit 2 and have to get to exit 34 it’s not as far as you expect! One other thing to note, rest areas in NH are primarily a bathroom and a liquor store. No coffee… not much for food… just a place to buy alcohol and a toilet. We never realized this before. But in both MA and ME a rest area provides something for everyone! Food courts, gasoline, rest rooms, dog walk areas…. Definitely a big plus! Tucker had the full back seat to himself today since Lillian decided not to join us this trip. She would have found the first walk pretty challenging since it was fairly long. Note to Lillian (and any other non-walkers): Any trail ranked as "easy" because it's flat doesn't mean it's short, and at 86, Lillian draws the line at a half mile or so! That's her prerogative, but on this day we were choosing the long and leisurely routes.

Over the River and Through the Woods - For Real!

Arriving in Saco, we easily found the entrance to the park even without a sign. Plenty of cars parked just outside the closed gates. There is a fairly long road to the gate house itself. It winds through beautiful woods with trails leading off every few hundred feet. I'm thinking park rangers are kept quite busy during the summer keeping people from parking along this road on the way to the beach. But it was empty and quiet on Sunday, except for the random red squirrel who hopped out to check on us as we passed. Maybe they were park rangers in disguise! I think Tucker thought they were very small cats since one stood about 3 feet in front of him and he just tipped his head and then looked at me with a puzzled look on his face.

There were a number of people out walking in the sunshine but this park is so spread out that for the most part we felt like we were on our own. Eventually we came upon a picnic area and the main parking lot. Ferry Beach State Park provides a LOT of picnic sites, a group area and shelter that can be reserved, changing rooms, rest rooms, and an educational walk through a Tupelo Swamp which was a beautiful find! We enjoyed the peace, the smell of green, and the fact that this is one of the larger stands of Tupelo Trees in the northeast. I don't think I ever saw a Tupelo tree... been to the Tupelo Music Hall but that's not quite the same. I'm sure this swamp is gorgeous in the Fall when the leaves are bright orange. But Spring was definitely lurking just below the surface in this place. We could hear the birds singing, see water trickling everywhere, and the ice on the pond was drawing back quickly. We did appreciate the fact too, that when spring finally does arrive (we knew that we were just stealing a few spring like moments in March!) this place is no doubt loaded with Black Flies!!!! That's a whole season of it's own in Maine! And in summer we would guess mosquitos too. So if you do head here “in-season” and want to walk the swamp, we’d recommend bug spray (industrial size), and long sleeves!

Beaches in Winter

We followed the path to the entrance to the beach and were disappointed to find it gated off for the season. The walkway actually passes below the road and the gates stretch from the ground to the top of the archway so there was no climbing over, under or squeezing through, cause we certainly considered it…. Ah winter… some things are a plus (lack of crowds, no need for multiple applications of sunscreen), but for a beach outing, summer is no doubt better. The beach is just a short walk from the main parking lot, but if you do go in winter and want to see the beach, we’d recommend parking out on the main intersection near the beachfront. That’s what we did once we’d finished wandering (and getting slightly lost) in the park itself. The trails are really nice and meander along a brook with many bridges to cross. All are kept in wonderful shape. We also came upon the picnic shelter which looks brand new and a sign indicates funding came from the sale of the Maine Loon license plates. Nice to see how that money gets used!

Getting Lost

The Tupelo Swamp includes many educational signs and trail maps but because a lot of the individual trail markers were taken down (for the season we assume) we did kind of wander a lot further than we expected (read "we got lost!"). Thankfully we knew it was an enclosed and limited space so not to worry that we’d wander forever, but still…. The brook started to look rather appetizing to Tucker whose tongue was hanging low. We were only carrying binoculars and a camera and no water! We don't let Tucker drink water from rivers and streams due to a lot of bacteria they can carry, so we kept him away and he managed to get back to the car without really getting too thirsty.

A Great Place to Steal a Spring Day Out of Season!

This would be a great park for kids and we heard a few who were obviously excited to get out of the house and out of heavy outerwear to just run free for a while! Lots of streams and brooks to play in, walkways to run down, and even a mountain biker or two enjoying the easy ride on a cool day. I'm sure a jogging stroller or bike trailer (or whatever those things are called) would be perfect! It's even flat enough for a tandem cycle if you've got one! So bring it on!

But Ferry Beach IS about a Beach so....

We did get there…. but not until after we made a quick detour into Ocean Park (a small town just north of Saco) to see if we could find a restroom… cause nothing is open in winter up here!!! Geesh! No restaurants, even the Chamber of Commerce/Visitor’s Center, Dunkin Donuts. and the amazingly huge public restrooms are locked up for the winter. Thank Heaven for 7-11… and I’m sure that’s not what they MEAN by that slogan, but we understood it big time! Just a note on Ocean Park. It’s a Chautauqua community. Also known as "Chautauqua-by-the-Sea". It was founded over 130 years ago and is a summer assembly inter-faith community. When I saw the sign when we drove into town, at first I thought Chautauqua was some sort of developer… but the homes are old and there’s LOTS of public buildings that had old dates on them as well. Come to find out there are a number of these communities around the country including one on Martha's Vineyard, and also Michigan, New Jersey, Tennesee and more! Check out their website at the above link if you're interested. It seems like a great place if you enjoy community suppers, lectures, music festivals and more. Not sure they're all that welcoming to diversity of our type but it peaked our interest enough to maybe go back and check it out during the summer.

Yes, Yes, We'll Get to the Beach, But a Convent Got in the Way!

..So back to Saco and the beach… we used the entrance and parking next to the Bay View Convent…. We were struck by the sheer size of the convent and thought initially that the place was just closed up for the winter… It’s four stories with an amazing lawn facing the beach, big porches, a huge parking lot… and as we walked around front to take pictures, we noticed the “for sale” sign. This amazing place is being sold as lots for an ocean front community. Very sad. But I did a little homework and found that the Bay View Convent was put on the market in 2009. Originally started by the Good Shepherd nuns, and run as a beachfront hotel, The Bayview Villa, the number of nuns available to work had dwindled from 260 between 1940 and 1970 to just 21 nuns that had been living at the convent and running the hotel. All were in their 70’s and 80’s. I can't even imagine them doing all the housekeeping, cooking, reservations... but there they were! Or at least there they'd BEEN. The nuns had just celebrated their 125th anniversary shortly before putting the property on the market! Originally they’d come to the area to help run an orphanage, a school and a hospital and were very busy in the community during that history. Read more (you’ll need to scroll about a quarter way down the page); I found lots of travel notes on the place and it sounds like it was definitely inexpensive, with shared baths, and breakfast included in the room charge with lunch and dinner as an option too… What a great escape it must have been. I’ve actually found its listing on loopnet at $3.6MM…. seems like a very cheap price for what’s there!

Anyway, we’ll move on from our dreams of one gigantic B&B on the beach. But we did want to point out that Ferry Beach itself is a very nice beach with many access roads and not a lot of parking. It’s a wide, sandy beach which isn’t that common in a state where beach and rocks seem to go hand in hand. During our visit there were a lot of dogs playing on the beach and its obvious that in winter that’s allowed, but NOT in summer. There were also a few really great dragon kites up and flying! Tucker stayed in the car since with his short legs, a walk on the sand would not have been a fun event. But we want to point out that in warmer weather (Spring, Fall OR Summer) we do NOT leave him in the car. If he isn't going to be admitted to wherever we go, we leave him in the comfort of his own home! While he loves going places with us, we don't think he enjoys a day spent sitting in the car and only being allowed out to "do his business" anymore than WE would! And dogs left in cars, even on cooler days, can be stuck in a deathtrap very quickly, even if the windows are cracked a little.... it's just not safe for them!!!! So PLEASE, if you bring your pets with you on these trips, do not leave them in the car!!!!!!! I can't stress that enough. As we left the beach, we were struck by the colorful fence along the path. Beth got a great shot of it… all tied with bits and pieces that wash up on the beach after a storm. Pretty enough to print and hang up!

Another great attraction (and I kicked myself for not taking pics) was the amusement park area in Old Orchard Beach. This is a real boardwalk on the beach kind of place with a roller coaster and lots of other rides and attractions, all in gorgeous Technicolor and sitting idle just waiting for April (or May) to get here. This area must absolutely hop once warm weather sets in, so when we head back (and we will!) we’re going to get up at the crack of dawn to get a space up here! Lots of seasonal rentals too, so if you’re looking for a place that’s just a little bit off the beaten path, think Ocean Park and Saco…. We know we will!

Two Lights State Park

• Tucker’s Rating – 4 Wags He loved this place but with the slippery shale stairs and some sudden drop-offs to the crashing waves below, he didn't get to meander quite as much as he might like. Still, lots of shady spots for a nap and happy people everywhere!
  
  


• Our Rating – 4.5 wags! We would have given it a 5 but we weren't sure what it's like in summer, and if it's jam-packed with people then it may remain a 4.5.
  
  


• Accessibility – Pretty good. Lots of flat, clear trails and alternate slopes instead of shale stairs, but this place does include a lot of rocks by the ocean to walk and sit on, and even on our own two feet it was a bit scary stepping around.
  
  


• Fees – Again, it's best to check the schedule. We didn't pay anything and didn't see anywhere to put the off-season fee of $1.50. But in-season I can imagine they collect every penny they can and rightfully so! This is a beautiful park and well kept. Maine resident adults appear to be $3, non-resident is $4.50 and Maine seniors are $1.50 with children 5 - 11 at $1.00 and under 5 free. So if you bring a family it could get pricy for the day!
  
  


• Pet Friendly – While this park appears to have a historic battery, the facility isn't open to the public. In Maine pets are not allowed on beaches or historic sites but it appears Two Lights is neither, so Tucker was good to go, and can come back in summer!!! I'd maybe call the park first to check on pets though if you head there in summer, just to make certain, since it's a long drive only to find you can't get in!
  
  


• Other Activities - According to the website, you can fish at this park. You'd have to be brave enough to wander down onto the rocks and then be able to cast from there.... but still, nice to know. They also have a wonderful kids playground, public restrooms, bbq's and picnic tables each set into their own little woodland nook overlooking the ocean. Get there early and stake a claim! That's what we're planning on doing come summer!

As I write this part of the blog I am realizing an issue with clumping parks and posts... they get pretty darned long when we like a park and visit more than one in a weekend. So hang in there, or bookmark us so you can come back and read more later!

A Bit of Art History

We headed north from Ferry Beach and drove right up to Portland before getting off the highway and heading to Cape Elizabeth and Two Lights State Park. One of the lighthouses that stands behind this park was made famous in a painting by Edward Hopper, Lighthouse at Two Lights. There really are two lighthouses too, although one is working and the other has been turned into part of a private home, so they don't look like "twins" anymore. This park is another one that is easy to find. Nice large parking lot, lots of signs, and an amazing view of Casco Bay and the open Atlantic. We saw two very large tankers sitting just off-shore, and a number of smaller boats so even in late winter, this bay is busy!

When Does "By the Ocean" Not Mean a Beach?

This isn't a beach style park. You are right on the water but you're dealing with high rocky cliffs and lots of shale. Wear good walking shoes if you're heading here for a day. Sandals would probably be great if they're Teva-style with good soles for gripping. Otherwise you may find the rocks a bit dangerous to wander around on. Also, bring your bbq supplies because the raised bbq's that can be found with each picnic table, are perfect, but there's no where in the park to buy supplies. Picnic tables are nestled into their own little woodland openings so you've not on top of each other when you head here, but there are areas that have multiple tables and bbq's within close proximity. Beth and I daydreamed out loud about getting a group of 10 or 12 friends together some early summer morning and heading up here to stake our claim and hang by the ocean all day long! Just seems like EXACTLY what this place was made for. To give you a vague idea of what the trails are like... reminds me of the Marginal Way on steroids! Oceanside trails, benches and picnic tables, but WOW what a view of the open ocean! And you don't have all the trinket shops and restaurants and lobster boats vying for space either like you do in Ogunquit. That has it's own kind of appeal, but Two Lights is definitely about the ocean and not shopping.

Art in Unexpected Places

We wandered along the trails, and stopped to read about Battery 201, which lies beneath the mound overlooking the ocean. In 1995- 1996, Bradley McCallum installed an exhibit, Permanence of Memory, including both collected objects, photos and voiceover, that provided insight into the world of a veteran of WWII. It included a Memorial Book for all Maine citizens who gave their lives fighting in that war. Very cool, the book had a page for each individual, and family members who attended the exhibit could add notes about the person, include photos, additional comments, etc. The exhibit took advantage of the batteries cold, damp, abandoned personae and McCallum was inspired to build it after happening on the battery during a hike. He had the sense, in the damp darkness of the building, that the walls were crying. The site wasn't open when we visted, and the exhibit moved on to other locations after it's initial showing, but you can read more about it in an essay written by Lucy Lippard. As with the painting by Edward Hopper, this is evidence that art can find you even when you're not looking!

As we soaked up the sunshine on the point, watching bubbles floating on the breeze (there was a woman sitting there blowing bubbles) we felt Two Lights is the perfect example of Maine, rocky coastline, beautiful ocean views, history, nature, friendly people, and a chance to explore. This one will no doubt continue to hold a spot in our Top 5 of the 52 for a good long time to come!

Halibut Point State Park

A Beautiful Walk by the Ocean!
If you love open woods, fields, ocean breezes, and a bit of history, this is the park for you!

• Tucker's Rating: 4 wags (he didn't join us but would have loved it)
• Our Rating: 4.5 wags. Just too interesting a place to only visit once
• Accessibility: Good. Some steep paths, and rocky areas, but most navigable. Ramps to visitors center (which was closed) and clean, warm restrooms at visitors center, with chemical toilets near parking lot. During summer months they also provide guided tours with special assisted listening devices.
• Fees: In winter FREE! Parking fee during the warmer months
• Special Activities: Granite Cutting demos on Saturdays in summer.

We had intended to drive to Maine but decided to stay a bit closer to home and found ourselves driving out to Rockport, MA and Halibut Point State Park. We got a bit confused with our GPS directions and found ourselves winding through some amazing ocean front neighborhoods on the way to the park but still arrived just after 10 AM. In time to MISS the winter birding trip that was scheduled, but early enough to catch the trails without a ton of people wandering. This seems to be the type of park that people frequent all year round and we came across birders, moms with kids out for a picnic, and plenty of beautiful, wintery wood scenes... most of our pictures have that gray/taupe monochrome color but with the vivid blue sky in the background it was just beautiful.

Woods That Look Like Woods are Supposed to Look
What does that mean? You'll have to go and find out. Wandering vines, catbriar, bayberry, blueberry, arrowwood, shadbush and what we believe to be lots of Virginia roses which we seem to find along the ocean on every trip, create a very open, airy wood, minus the standard evergreen trees we're accustomed to. And everywhere you'll find slabs of granite. Halibut Point is located on slabs of 440 million year old granite... and at the end of the main trail you'll arrive at the quarry itself. Part of the Babson Farm Quarry and Rockport Granite Company.
Previous Occupants
We found the site very interesting, including the renovated WWII firetower that acts as a visitor's center (closed in winter) but previously was used by the military to protect both Boston and Portsmouth Harbors, the foundations of a coal burning power plant that the granite quarry workers used to power their equipment, and even the granite base of a railroad that was used to transport granite to the main lines for shipment across the country. The visitor's center features various forms of granite and equipment used to harvest the stone from the quarry. As you walk around the quarry itself, a self-guided trail map will show the various features leftover from the quarry's heydays.

Amazing Views
We walked all the way out on to the point which, according to the self-guided brochure, is made up of a mountain of waste granite. The view at the end is amazing. On the clear day we were there we could see all the way to Mt. Agamenticus in ME, and also Seabrook's power plant and Sandy Point Reservation on Plum Island (one of our first blog trips!). The water looked cold and the wind didn't help, so we'd recommend wearing something with a hood if you're heading out here in winter. But it was definitely beautiful. Looking down at the beach to the right of the point we could see many stone piles people have left behind. I don't think we've seen more in one place except for those we saw on Martha's Vineyard, and we can never resist taking photos. It just looks like a line of soldiers on the beach.

On the backside of the quarry we ran into some birders and chatted a bit about how many birds pass through this area in winter, including loons, grebes and puffins. We did bring binoculars but I think you'd have to sit for a while in one space for these types of birds to feel comfortable enough to come within viewing distance. The winter birding group had taken a different trail that led down to the beach and we decided that with all the wind and the amount of walking we'd already done, we weren't feeling like taking that additional route... plus, lunch was included in our plans, so we headed into Rockport and Bearskin Neck.


A Great Place to Wander and Shop
Even in Winter, Rockport is a great destination for anyone who likes to poke around in shops, buy jewelry, t-shirts, and fudge, check out some beautiful art galleries and just soak up the atmosphere of an ocean-side town. Motif #1 is one of the most famous sites in Rockport.... everyone has seen it whether or not they know what it is or where it is, and we chose to have lunch at The Greenery... a great lunch spot with a view overlooking the small harbor and Motif #1 sitting there large as life! It was like a painting come to life with gulls, and loons paddling around in front of it. We also made certain to stop at Tuck's Candy before heading home, for just a tiny piece of almond bark as dessert. There are so many things going on in Rockport year-round, and tons of little bed and breakfasts to stay in that this is a destination we'd highly recommend for a weekend getaway... but make it a long weekend. Otherwise you'll feel short changed. We know we're going back so we were okay with it just being a day. Rockport is a "can't get there from here" kind of location so plan for a nice drive out and back, and thankfully during the warmer months the park is open from 8 am to 8 pm so you'll have plenty of time to enjoy your day! We're definitely going back, and as with Blackstone this one is getting added to our list of favorites!

Blackstone River and Canal Heritage State Park

Now THIS is a park!
An awesome spot for a day in the country no matter the time of year.

• Tucker's Rating: 4 wags (no food but otherwise a place he would love)
• Our Rating: 4.5 wags (again, no food, but we're definitely going back!)
• Accessibility: Definitely. Nice flat trails, elevator in visitor's center and accessible restrooms
• Pet friendly - Yes. For dogs on leash
  
• Fee: free but we're sure they'd take donations and the park deserves it!
  

We headed out this morning with the idea of going both to this park and Roger Williams down near Providence, RI. Lillian wanted a drive so she joined us for the drive south, and a beautiful day it was but very blustery. It brought to mind Winnie the Pooh and his balloons! And even with the sun it was COLD! We took the scenic route based on notes from the website, but in our book it didn't qualify as scenic. The mill villages aren't readily apparent until you're almost to the park and we would have preferred more time at the park itself. But there is an amazing mill building complex just as you turn out of the center of town, that has been turned into housing and it is definitely worth checking out. We're wishing we'd taken pictures when we were there! Beautiful buildings and beautiful modern use while maintaining the historic look and feel.


Great Trail System!
We found the River Bend Farm Visitors Center easily. Nice and warm, clean restrooms, great maps, and a sign noting that this park is one of the Top Ten canoeing sites in New England. Seems kind of strange given all the places to canoe in the area, but with nice long canals and pools, easy put-ins, lots of picnic tables and bbq grills, we can imagine this is an awesome place to laze away a summer day. Lillian did not want to walk around in the wind and cold so she stayed in the car as we headed out across the bridge. We immediately saw the attraction of this park. Lots of nice flat, wide, open walking trails that run along the canal, and huge open fields. There is also a clearly marked Healthy Heart Trail at this park, and access to stamps for children keeping their Park Passports updated. The map provided is very easy to read and the people working in the visitor center were very helpful to point out nearby attractions that link to the trails including Blackstone Gorge, Millville Lock, the Stone Arch Bridge and various wildlife viewing areas. Some historic buildings are managed by non-profit groups in the area and there is a fee, but for most of this park all areas are fee free! We had hoped to drive over to the Gorge but time ran short so we wandered the immediate park and highly recommend it as a place to go when you've got a full day! The day we were there the towpath trails were busy with people walking their dogs or taking photos, and I even saw one brave person fishing through the ice. Not sure what he was catching in that fast flowing water, but he seemed prepared to spend the day.


Other Activities
The park features include maple sugaring and we saw the lines hooked up. Sugaring begins in March and the visitor's center had flyers for some events related to that. Check out the Blackstone Valley Sugaring Association for more information. There are also numerous places to put in canoes and kayaks, and along many parts of the canal it appears the current is slow enough for a leisurely paddle without actually going anywhere. Hunting is also allowed. We saw signs as we walked along the edge of one field, so wearing brightly colored clothing might be a good idea during hunting season. In addition, mountain biking, and cross-country skiing, is clearly available, although even in February there wasn't enough snow on the ground to accomplish any real skiing or snowshoeing. It also appears that the park may have canoes for rent. We saw a number stacked up behind the visitor's center, but they may be part of the interpretive programs the park runs so call before you go if you plan on trying to rent. The Blackstone River Watershed Association holds a kayak/canoe race in the Spring and also various events through the warmer months educating about the ecology of the river, and promoting enjoyment of this area. Check their activities out here.


Some History on this Site
The canals located here were originally developed to connect Worcester and Providence. Water from the Blackstone River powered the first successful textile mill, the Slater Mill in Pawtucket, RI. It was this mill and the related canals that spurred the movement in our country from farm to factory, so this is the birthplace of the other mills we've visited in Lawrence, and in the coming weeks, Lowell. The towpaths that are now hiking paths, were used by donkeys or horses to pull the boats through these sections of the canal.

A Boat Ride Too??
If you'd like to see the Blackstone River by boat, there are a number of options including the Blackstone Valley Explorer, a 49-passenger riverboat. It appears that on the last Sunday of the month in May, June, July and August they give FREE river boat rides. The boat leaves from two different locations depending on the time of year, and both are located in Rhode Island. There are also a number of canoe clubs and rentals in the area including the Blackstone Valley Paddle Club, and the Wampanoag Paddlers, so if you're looking for water fun you've found it here!

A Short Visit and We're Learning!
More and more we're realizing the amazing amount of history that's just around the corner from home! We plan on returning to this park when the weather is nicer, with a picnic and Tucker, and maybe a bike or a kayak in tow so we can really spend a traditional summer day in the country. When we started these blog trips we had the right idea by leaving in the early morning, but with winter and the iffy weather we've delayed our trips til mid-day and we're losing out! So with the longer days and hopefully warmer weather we'll be getting back on track and spending full days exploring!

An Important Point
I do have to say that while we saw this park as the essential "day in the country" kind of destination, on the way to this park we did not have the feeling we were going to "the country". As noted, we read the website and it recommended a scenic route to see mill villages along the way. Don't bother using that longer route. You'll drive through a lot of condominium construction, prefab housing, and very few places where you could stop for lunch or a quick coffee. So plan accordingly. On our trip we ended up driving back to Waltham for lunch at Bertucci's! The parks close at 4 or 4:30 so we didn't have time to drive further south to see the gorge or head to Providence but this is an area you could definitely head to for a weekend getaway and have plenty to see and do! We recommend it and will keep it on our list of local places we enjoy!

Hannah Duston Memorial

A State Park it is not!
But it does appear on NH's list of State Parks so we're counting it!

• Tucker’s Rating – a definite 2 wags. He had fun running around and sniffing
• Our Rating – 1.5 wags, and that extra half wag is only in honor of poor Hannah. An amazon of her time who murdered her captors and escaped with two others to return to her family and friends… back in 1697!!!!
• Pet Friendly – Yes
• Accessibility – Steep walkway and access across a railroad bridge so not the best for a wheelchair or when the way is covered with ice.
• Fees – Totally free. It's in a park 'n ride, how could they charge?
  
  
  While it’s listed under NH State Parks, the Hannah Duston Memorial is not a park. There is no signage except a plain brown sign stating “Path to Memorial Statue”, no separate parking, no State Park sign or even memorial sign to tell you WHAT memorial you’re seeing… and when you get off the highway there are no signs directing you as far as which way to go, or where to stop! Not that any of those things denote a State Park, but we come to expect a certain amount of information to be provided when we're heading to a park, and with this one we were sorely disappointed.

A Lonely Woman Isn't Hard to Find... or Is She?
We knew the statue was near the river, and we knew to drive towards Boscawen…. We saw Hannah Duston Drive and pulled into a Park ‘n Ride just past that street, and there at the back corner was a break in the metal lot barriers, and the lone brown sign at the top of an ice covered path. We walked down the path past what looked like a transfer station (piles of sand, trash, trucks, etc) and came to a walkway that led up a hill and towards the river. People had dumped trash next to the path but we saw footprints in the snow so we walked up the hill… nice view of the river, but no memorial… back to the path and Beth saw a bridge to the left… OK, it’s actually a railroad bridge with a narrow walkway along the side so we headed over and not too far beyond the bridge we came upon Hannah’s statue. Quite an imposing one actually, although sad that it does include graffiti, and someone obviously broke off Hannah’s nose which has since been replaced with a darker color granite. So there she stands, looking ferocious all alone in the woods next to a railroad track and a river. The NH State Parks website refers to the area as a pretty picnic site… it’d need to be a sight cleaner and have an actual picnic table to qualify as this in my book. No special signs to explain who she was or what she did or why there was a statue set up in her honor either. We did a bit of research on that and found conflicting stories…. But our summary:

Hannah's Story
In Haverhill, MA on a night (or early morning) in March 1697, just a week after giving birth to her twelfth child, Martha, at the age of FORTY (who says women only had kids in their teens back then, and were considered old when they hit 30?) Hannah Duston’s home was attacked by a tribe of Abenaki Indians. She was in no condition to run, so she sent her children and husband to the local garrison to safety and stayed at the house with the baby’s nurse, Mary Neff. Both Hannah and Mary were kidnapped along with Martha, but because Martha was slowing down the progress of the group, the Indians took the baby and smashed her head against a tree to get rid of her (gruesome and this story has haunted me since I first heard about Hannah Duston many years ago). A family group of the Indians then took Mary, and Hannah and a 14 year old boy they’d picked up in Worcester about a year and a half earlier and headed north along the Merrimack River. They stopped on an island (presumably the one where the statue now stands) and in a few days Hannah, Mary and the young boy Samuel plotted to kill their captors. One night, when all were sleeping, they had their chance. In a matter of minutes Hannah, Mary and Samuel attacked and all the indians were killed. The threesome stole one canoe and scuttled the rest… they headed out on the river for home, but Hannah realized no one would believe their story (and because Indian scalps brought a reward) she returned to the site and scalped them all, keeping the scalps safe in a piece of cloth. They traveled by night and hid during the day along the river. Eventually they arrived in Hudson, NH and were reunited with their families. Interesting to note that Hannah’s husband went with her to Boston after her return, to request a special payment on the scalps that she had collected. A bounty had been set on indian scalps because of all the problems settlers were having with the indians. Some records show that the bounty had been reduced before the event, but when her account of the capture was revealed, including the fact that they had killed her child, the courts decided to pay her 50 pounds for the scalps.

Other Resources, Other Versions
There are many sites that go into far greater detail about this event including Wikipedia, one sponsored by Hannah’s own descendents, and one written by a guy out in Seattle. His approaches Hannah's story from a totally modern perspective, and had us laughing out loud! Not that her story is funny, but the modern twist really paints her like a comic book hero, including her in the "badass of the week" list!

There are actually two statues of Hannah. The one in Haverhill, MA is a bit different and provides more detail. It is supposedly the first statue in the country commemorating a woman and was originally erected in 1874. The Garrison House the family escaped to is also still standing in Haverhill, MA and there is a museum which may be located in the garrison however we couldn’t tell this from the website. If we have a chance later this year, we’ll make a visit to Haverhill to tie all these pieces together!

We’d recommend this location as one to stop by if only for curiousity. It’s definitely not a destination park and doesn’t take more than 10 minutes to see, but if you’re on your way up to the Lakes during the summer, spring or fall, or going to a concert at Meadowbrook, it’s worth a stop on the way. This isn't really much of a park for winter.

We continued our day with a drive to Laconia to visit my friend Nancy and had a great lunch and chance to catch up! Not the most eventful of Park trips, but it's another one to cross of our list! If you've been to this memorial and have additional notes to add, please feel free to contribute!

Lawrence Heritage State Park - #10

Is it a park? Is it a museum? Is it the birthplace of Robert Frost (like the sign on Rt. 495 says)?

Tucker’s Rating – 1 wag (pets not allowed and there’s nothing there for them anyway!)
Our Rating – 2.5 wags. Although the thought of us wagging our tails at ANYTHING but a 5 is kind of ludicrous. We considered this park an interesting place, but not a "destination park", at least not in winter. Also, the lack of staff and lighting was a big drawback. We’d suggest it as a place to go for those with a particular interest in mill history, Lawrence history, or if you happen to be in the area and have an hour or so to discover some interesting local facts. It's definitely not a waste of time, but not a highlight either. Kids might be entertained by some of the exhibits and they do carry the MA DCR's Park Passports. The Park Passports are part of a program run by the Massachusetts Division of Conservation and Recreation, to promote children visiting state parks. Actually a really cool program we've seen, similar to one where kids earn patches for visiting firetowers in NH! While Lawrence Heritage State Park doesn't have its own stamp (since its not really geared towards children) the passports themselves are available and they do have a stamp that can be used to prove you've visited the park. This site also includes a visitor’s center, and carries announcements about local events, so it feels a little like a tourist information booth when you first walk in, but there are interesting things to see.

Accessibility - ADA Accessible including ramps and elevators. Lillian had no trouble getting in and around!

Fees - Free (even the parking if you hit it on a day that the small lot has a vacancy. It was totally empty the day we visited.) There is also street parking but we'd recommend the lot.

Two weeks in a row! We must be determined this year!
And to answer the first questions we posed, officially it’s a park, in reality it’s a museum, and no, Robert Frost was born in San Francisco in 1874. When his father passed away, he DID move with his family to Lawrence, MA around the age of 10. He graduated from Lawrence High School as valedictorian, and published his first poem in the school newspaper. His most famous poem, Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening with it's last four lines, "The woods are lovely dark and deep, But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep-, And miles to go before I sleep" is one I can still hear echo in my head in my father’s voice. Amazing how sound is something we carry with us forever. I even found part of this poem in Frost’s own handwriting on the web . But this isn’t a blog about Robert Frost, or poetry even! It’s about parks and hiking and interesting stuff along the way! So here we go!

Let's do TWO parks!
We started off the day planning to see both Lawrence and Lowell's State Parks. Both were created around the business of the mills, so it seemed like a good combination. Unfortunately, as is usually the case with us, we got out of the house later than planned and couldn’t hit both in the afternoon. They are pretty close together, and located just off Rt. 495 (easy to find), but these parks are not open late in the day. To be honest, except for the fact that the front door was unlocked at the Lawrence facility, you could have convinced me that we’d walked into a building that was really closed for at least the day if not the season.

The Lawrence Heritage State Park is accessible to all, with ramps outside and elevators inside. A person Beth tells me was a park ranger (but who looked to me like just someone from the neighborhood), pointed out the ramps so we could help Lillian into the building. She turned them down, having already faced the icy parking lot and the icy walkway. She felt confident handling the 3 or 4 stairs up into the building. They were very clear and safe, and while the building itself is in among the old mill buildings, and a part of the city that one might think is mostly abandoned, we didn't feel that safety was an issue. The "park" itself is located in an old rooming house next to what appears to be the skeletal remains of another mill building, which has been cleaned up and beautified by a garden area with walks, benches and the roof opens up to the sky above. On the way back to our car after our visit, Beth even saw a hawk sitting on one of the rafters. No doubt taking a break from fishing in the canals nearby. The park building has been made over into an information- and image-filled archive of everything mill-related wrapped with the history of Lawrence in its heyday. What an amazing place it was before the mills started to shut down. We wandered and poked around, finding lots of dimly lit rooms. Thankfully it was a sunny day, so for the most part we could see displays, read signs, etc.

As you enter the building there is a large piece of equipment that we think was a safe. Both the size and design is incredible! The sign on the front says if you’re wondering what’s inside, ask the person at the front desk to open it…. Unfortunately, there was no one at the front desk… or anywhere in the building that we could see. Just off the first large room there is also a small video room where they show various films (including The Great Impostor, a film about a famous resident of Lawrence), and the feature on Sunday was about the Bread and Roses Strike. I would have loved to watch the video, but the sign said to ask for assistance at the front desk and again there wasn’t anyone AT the front desk. Hmmmmm......

What will you find?
The building holds memorabilia on the mills (their rise and fall), the collapse of the Pemberton Mill in 1860 (we were happy to see that it was rebuilt and is still just down the street), the Bread and Roses strike of 1912, and the immigrant population as well as commercial memorabilia from various manufacturing companies in Lawrence including New Balance Shoes, signage from restaurants, letters written by George Washington (I’m thinking this is a case of "George Washington slept here." Why else would they have letters written by him?), school photos of Robert Frost and his wife, and more. It’s a place you could wander in for quite some time if you're into reading display signs and pouring over collages, photos, and memorabilia. There are lighted displays but none of the lights worked and it wasn’t until I’d made my second pass by an area on the second floor that I read the sign stating that they were conserving electricity by keeping all non-essential lights off, so "Please check with the front desk if there is something you’d like to see…" Again, no one at the front desk! You’d think they’d take those signs down when they know no one will be at the front desk. I didn’t bother to GO to the front desk until we were getting ready to leave because I knew no one was there. It wasn't until I stopped there on the way out to pick up various brochures and sign the guest book that I saw the bell and the sign saying to ring it for assistance. aaargh! And how long, pray tell, would it take for that person who is obviously hovering somewhere close enough to hear the bell, take to get back to their post???… now I’m thinking if there was a ranger somewhere in that building (and Beth says the guy who told us about the ramp came in after us and went downstairs) then that ranger is sitting SOMEWHERE in that building…. My suggestion... SIT BEHIND THE DESK! Rather than sitting somewhere else waiting for a bell to ring. I mean REALLY, are they watching TV somewhere? Doing piecework? Handling correspondence? Sitting is sitting, isn't it? Either that, or put motion detectors on the lights so that when you enter the room, lights and buttons are activated. If the room is vacant for say 10 minutes, the power goes out. We did see the bulk of the displays but not all…. And we were wishing we’d been able to view them without having to squint or hope the sun would come out from behind a cloud. If it were a cloudy day I think we really wouldn't have bothered going upstairs at all.

Anything else?
They’ve also got miniature reproductions of the famous mill clock tower (acting as a time capsule to be opened in 2053!), various mill buildings, and life-size statues in a mill room setting. This is a nice museum/park, but unless you’re watching one of the movies available, I think an hour tops is what you’d need, that and a flashlight!

So at the end of our hour, we headed out to explore the immediate area and were amazed at how far and wide the mills spread out. They cover acres of the city! I'd definitely recommend driving around a bit near the canal to get a good feel for how far and wide the mills stretched. Its no wonder that with the loss of both the cotton and woolen industries, Lawrence was hit with a terrible crash from which they are still trying to rebuild. Some of the renovation is very impressive, and you'll find some cute restaurants and shops scattered through the mills as well as some gorgeous stonework in a few. The Immigrant Archive is just down the block from this building and I’m certain would be great for anyone interested in more New England history past and current.

What else is in the area?
As mentioned, this area of Lawrence is still under development. There are a lot of abandoned mill buildings, but more that have been refitted for various businesses including restaurants, manufacturing, doctor’s offices, etc. I'd highly recommend Salvatore's if you're looking for a restaurant with great food, reasonable prices and a beautiful deck that overlooks the Merrimack River. Some of the buildings have also been developed into loft and studio style residences, and if you like antiques you can find Canal Street Antique Center and a few other interior decorating type of businesses in the area, with some great deals on all kinds of things both old and new! At Canal Street we were offered a beautiful solid cherry Asian-style sideboard marked from $895, down to $495 and the owner told us to “make an offer” because he HAD to get rid of it! We did very well by resisting temptation but if you’re looking for furniture, glass, tea cups, lamps, you name it, you’ll find it!

On the way home we tried to stop at our favorite Bradford restaurant, Joseph’s Trattoria/Bakery/Cafe, but they were closed for a company holiday party (in late January I guess they cover lots of holidays). If you’re looking for a yummy bakery or home made pasta, brick oven pizza and fire roasted meats and seafood, this is the place to stop! We’ll make it back there next time we’re out this way most definitely. Instead, we headed to The Loop, which is the redesigned Methuen Mall, looking happy, busy and much more popular than the indoor mall it had been. We poked around in Borders Books, had coffee and vanilla bean scones and headed back home. Altogether a nice relaxing and interesting day for a winter Sunday.

A Garden Park in Winter - Maudslay State Park

Yesterday's Estate, Today's Amazing Place to Wander

Tucker's Rating - 5 wags (we speak for him) This is a dog friendly park. Lots of fields to play in, water to get wet in, and squirrels and chipmunks to play with. We even saw a few dogs off leash, but remember it was the off-season. In the summer I've seen the park rangers threaten citations for unleashed dogs.

Admission Fee - free for the park itself, $2 to park your car. If you bring horses there is a field next to the parking lot to pull the trailers. Never had a problem parking here. Nice restroom open year round. But its the ONLY restroom available in the park so plan accordingly.

Accessibility - NOT ADA accessible. Healthy Heart Trail is considered moderate difficulty. There are a lot of rolling hills and fields, and very good pathways, but in winter they can be ice and snow covered, and in summer some areas are steep. Not sure you'd want to be pushing a stroller, wheelchair or using a walker through this park. Its very big (450 acres) and wild and there's little to no pavement.

Here we go again after quite a hiatus

Well, its been quite a while since we’ve been out on the road. Beth’s father took a turn for the worse in his battle with brain cancer shortly before Thanksgiving (just after our trip to Plymouth) and passed away the Sunday before Christmas. We treasured the time we had with him, and think the women who work at the Hospice House in Merrimack, NH are true angels! And one of the many truths Ed reminded us of as his time was passing was to get out and do things when you want. Don't put it off. He also told us to love each other and the people around us. You never know how much more time you’ll have and we know there were places and things he wanted to do (in addition to cleaning out the garage) which we decided do FOR him because he really wished he’d had that time.

Best Laid Plans of Mice and Women!
To start the year off we planned to go to Martha’s Vineyard's Manuel F. Correlus State Park to snow shoe. But the cost of the ferry ride and a hotel for a night, PLUS the iffy nature of this weekend’s weather had us thinking it might not be the best destination. Maybe next month (we’re putting it off for now but not forever!). Instead we chose Maudslay State Park in Newburyport, MA. This is another park we’ve been to numerous times, although I can’t remember ever going in winter. Nature definitely cooperated for the day and temps were between 40 and 50 degrees!!!! While boots were a necessity, a jacket really wasn’t. We’ve been out of hike mode for a while so forgot our walking sticks and binoculars, and only managed one camera but still it was a gorgeous day. My friend Jim joined us for the walk as well. I haven’t seen Jim in almost 30 years but we’d reconnected on Facebook and had been trying to figure out a time to meet and catch up! Awesome choice, because walks in the woods were something we'd shared back in college. We considered bringing Tucker but because of all the mud and possibility of snow, he stayed on the couch for the day. Good decision. While this is a park that dogs LOVE, Tucker is rather low-slung and would have spent the majority of the walk wet, cold and having to crunch through snow or slip across ice…. He’d definitely give the park 5 wags though, and we’ll be returning in the Spring WITH him most definitely. We give it 5 wags too. Great trails (though not marked the map is pretty easy to follow), really nice people, gorgeous views, and in summer lots of activities. In winter the one activity this park has listed on its calendar is Track-it! on February 15th. A park ranger teaches you about animal tracking, and then you head out into the park to seek out the tracks. Sandy Point State Park also has a program that weekend related to the Snow Owl so it might be a good option for President's Day weekend. In summer they have Theater in the Open, the Maudslay Arts Center featuring arts, dance and music, and more.

Following the Scout's Motto - Be Prepared!
SO with hikers specified, and the sun leading the way, we headed to Newburyport. Parking is plentiful and just $2 for the day. You have to buy a ticket at the kiosk and leave it on the dashboard. We gave our ticket to some other park visitors as we headed out since we HAD purchased a full day pass we weren't using.... sssshhhhhh.... don't tell! This park welcomes mountain bikers, horses, cross country skiers, snow shoers, dogs and just plain walkers like us.

In winter you may want to wear ice cleats on your shoes if you don’t do snow shoes or skis. We just did boots and my ankle is suffering for it. Parts of the park are gated off in winter to protect roosting bald eagles. This is a good thing because it is evidence that the Merrimack River has reached a point of "return" from its dirty past, and can now provide sufficient food to sustain these birds. Yay! We didn’t see any eagles but we DID see a flock of robins (does that mean spring is just around the corner, or did these guys buy a timeshare from the gaggle of Canada geese we saw hanging out on the river ice?).

This park does include a Healthy Heart Trail, although we’re thinking during the winter the “ease” of this trail may be somewhat impacted by ice and snow. There are many ponds, a few waterfalls, some amazing views of the Merrimack River, open fields, abandoned buildings, an old swimming pool, an entire forest of rhodendrons and azaleas, one of the largest stands of naturally occurring mountain laurels in MA (I don’t know if we saw those but we definitely saw the rhodendrons), and 19th century formal gardens. If you’re looking for a gorgeous place for an outdoor wedding, a place to play volleyball or cricket, or just have a relaxing picnic, this would be it! Again though, not in winter! :) Weddings and other large events require a special use permit.

There really wasn’t enough snow for snow shoes, but there was a beautiful hill that would have been perfect for sledding. As a matter of fact we heard kids enjoying it at the end of our walk. We were also followed by a labradoodle who found Beth far more exciting to walk with than her owners who were on skis. The park allows dogs on leash, however it is so large and open that I have frequently seen well behaved dogs allowed off leash. But as with all parks, dogs on leash are usually what's accepted. So you’re on your own with that issue. We wandered down by the waterfall and dam that leads out to the Merrimack River. Lots of ice piled up and we got some beautiful shots of the waterfall itself, partially frozen. Then we continued back up the hill and along the trail that follows the river. There is a VERY steep drop off to the river with no fence or railing so if you bring small children or adventurous kids (and this is the perfect park for kids to wander) be very careful near the edge of the trail. It’s a good 40 – 50 foot drop through brush to the water and there is no fast way to get down there for help unless you're a superhero. This trail features picnic tables and benches scattered around and something that we think was sculpture… kind of looks like waves, kind of looks like a sluice way from a drainage ditch. We didn’t arrive at any conclusions but took a picture anyway. There is a chain link fence at the end of this trail. One you COULD walk around easily since its just a fence on the trail itself, but we assumed it entered the area for bald eagles so we headed back up the hill.

A Bit of History - Turning an Old Estate into a Beautiful Park
The park itself is the former country estate of Frederick Strong Moseley, and was landscaped by Martha Brookes Hutcheson, one of the earliest female members of the American Society of Landscape Artists. Read more about it at the Park Association's site, or wikipedia even has some great history. It became a park in 1985. The trail we chose led us to the formal garden areas! There’s an amazing espaliered fruit tree there, some beautiful sculptured trees, and some old stairs, outbuildings, raised beds and more! This is an incredible place to get ideas for your home garden too. We’re going back in May/June to see the rhodendron and azalea blooming, and even in later June these gardens are gorgeous. Nice place for a Mother’s Day picnic.

Once we'd explored the gardens, we continued on and ended up in a big field overlooking the river. This is the location of one of the original houses, and you'll find remnants of the estate everywhere you look. Just a heads up for those looking to really walk the park. There is only one location with restrooms, and that’s the parking lot. It’s a long walk back, so hydrate accordingly! ‘nuff said!

Time to Eat!!!!
So by this time we’d walked about 2 hours (an hour longer than planned on) and decided it was time for lunch. We headed into downtown Newburyport and parked in the lot by the river which provided way more spaces than the parking lot next to the stores. Look for the parking kiosks again. A while ago this parking was free, but not anymore! $2 give you a couple hours to wander, or eat a relaxed lunch. We headed to the Grog which is a great place for a sandwich, a salad, or something more formal. I LOVED the shrimp BLT I had, and Beth and Jim seemed to have no problem finishing their lunches either. If you're looking for music, this place has live music in the evenings. Other places we’d recommend is The Black Cow, Mr. India, Ten Center Street, Michael’s Harborside, Szechuan Taste, and Caffé di Siena. Plenty of choices for coffee and a snack, a casual breakfast, lunch or dinner, or something fancier. You can even rent a lighthouse and have a gourmet dinner for two (a romantic idea but very pricy!). Basically you reserve the lighthouse and then select from a choice of area restaurants for the catering. Check out the lighthouse site here for more information. Can you tell we’re foodies ALONG with everything else? Maybe the next blog will be 52 restaurants…. We’ll see!

After a few hours for lunch, chatting and reviewing all our pictures we called it an afternoon and headed home. Hiking in winter is definitely a fun time. Calls for a bit more planning, but you really do get a sense of having the park to yourself. We’d recommend this one no matter the time of year! Followed by a trip to downtown Newburyport, or if you’re early enough, a trip out to Plum Island for the beach or another of our favorites, Sandy Point State Park! See you on the trails. Let us know if you want to join us on our next excursion!

A few other links:

Maudslay Park Association site
Adopt-an-Acre at Maudslay